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Ceramides Explained

They make up roughly half of the skin barrier's lipids by weight. Here is what they do, why they decline, and what topical ceramides can and cannot replace.

Author
Art of Radiance Editorial
Published
Reading time
2 min read
In this article
  1. What they do
  2. Why they decline
  3. Topical ceramides

Ceramides are waxy lipids. Together with cholesterol and free fatty acids, they form the lamellar sheets between the cells of the stratum corneum — the mortar in the barrier's brick-and-mortar structure.

What they do

Their orderly, layered arrangement is what makes the barrier water-resistant. Ceramide-rich skin loses less water and is less permeable to irritants. Skin with ceramide deficiencies — as seen in atopic dermatitis and, to a lesser degree, in aging and winter skin — tends to be dry and reactive.

Why they decline

  • Age: ceramide synthesis slows over decades
  • Season: levels are measurably lower in winter
  • Over-cleansing and harsh surfactants
  • UV exposure
  • Genetic factors affecting lipid processing enzymes

Topical ceramides

Applying ceramides in a moisturizer helps replenish the lipid matrix from the outside. Research suggests formulations that combine ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids in ratios similar to the skin's own are more effective than ceramides alone. Many barrier creams follow this principle.

Ingredient · Barrier lipid

Ceramides

Lipids that make up a large share of the skin barrier's 'mortar', helping keep water in and irritants out.

Ingredient · Vitamin

Niacinamide

Associated with increased ceramide synthesis by the skin itself.

References & further reading

  1. 01

    Ceramides and the skin barrier

    Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2008

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