Fermentation in Skincare

Fermentation is one of the oldest food technologies in East Asia — kimchi, miso, soy sauce, sake, and makgeolli all depend on it. Its arrival in skincare followed a well-known observation: workers who handled fermented rice in sake breweries were said to have unusually smooth hands.

What fermentation changes

Microorganisms break large molecules into smaller ones. Proteins become peptides and amino acids; sugars become organic acids; new antioxidant compounds may be produced. The result is a mixture that differs chemically from the raw ingredient — often more water-soluble and, in principle, more readily absorbed by the stratum corneum.

The main types

• Yeast ferments (galactomyces, saccharomyces): hydrating filtrates rich in amino acids and minerals
• Bacterial lysates (bifida, lactobacillus): studied for barrier and microbiome-related effects
• Fermented botanicals (ginseng, rice, tea, soy): the raw ingredient's compounds transformed and concentrated

What the evidence shows

Laboratory studies consistently show that fermentation alters the composition of botanical extracts, often increasing antioxidant content. Human studies of fermented skincare products are fewer and frequently manufacturer-sponsored, with modest findings around hydration and skin texture. Microbiome-related claims are emerging rather than established.

From the library · Book 1

The Art of Radiance: The Secrets to Asian Style Skincare

Bonus Chapter II — Fermented Extracts & Galactomyces

A Comprehensive Guide to Asian Style Skincare and New Trends